Member’s Trip Reports 2019

A Martini Hobby…      –  Tony Forster                                            March 2019

Anyone old enough to remember the Martini adverts from the 1970’s will know the catchphrase “Anytime, any place anywhere”. I just wonder if it was originally created for birding…? So it was that Tony Forster, Dolly Morley, Lucy Topsom and Glenn Collier caught a coach from Holt ( we all live there) to spend 5 days at Loch Auchray, Scotland with Lochs and Glens Coach Holidays. The trip was a bargain, with all travel, accommodation and full board, plus trips out daily, and with nightly entertainment including a piper and Scottish dancer who performed after the killing of the Haggis – , well it was Burns night when we were there! and all for less than £190. Birding at 60 miles an hour is best suited to spotting the bigger species, so it was Common Buzzard, Kestrel, Mute Swan, Grey Heron, gulls and Corvids the easiest to see and the highlights of a relaxed journey to Scotland. On checking in the hotel manager confirmed Pine Marten visited the waste bins but other than that they weren’t really were not well liked. A walk before dinner at the back of the hotel was not very productive but we added Goldcrest, Wren and Robin and later Great Spotted Woodpecker. The itinerary was daily trips including Sterling Castle, Edinburgh, Loch Lomond and Pitlochry and it was during these journeys and stops that we added such delights as Whooper Swan, Hooded Crow and Raven from the coach. A short walk from the coach park at Pitlochry is the Pitlochry dam and fish ladder built to help 5,000 Salmon annually pass upstream and over the dam, peak time being April to August. The dam had small numbers of distant Goldeneye, Goosander and Red-breasted Merganser. We did, however, watch locals feeding Goldeneye white bread in Callander, they were so close it was hard not to reach out and touch them. In all we saw 53 species but dipped on Pine Marten; we knew they were there because their footprints were clearly visible in the light snow, but we were either there too early or too late, I wonder if someone was tipping them off…? I appreciate coach trips conjure up a certain image in some peoples’ minds but it’s an easy way to travel, the food whilst not gourmet was pretty good, we met some really nice people and enjoyed 53 species including a couple of year ticks. Birding truly is a hobby you can enjoy any time, any place any where…

A Day Trip on Shetland!     By Tony Forster and Paul Riley  March 2019

Imagine looking out of your bedroom window and seeing a small owl looking at you – that’s just what happened to Jackie and Erik Moar in Tumblin, near Bixter, on mainland Shetland. Having no idea of the significance they posted a picture on Facebook that set off the first serious twitch of 2019.
In less than 24 hours the first of hundreds were in their garden keen to get a glimpse of the first Tengmalms Owl seen on Shetland since 1912. With restricted access and the residents to consider, it was unfortunate that some birders took to lamping, which undoubtedly didn’t help the birds roosting behaviour, or the neighbours mood, and the owl became irregular at the site as access was restricted even further.
We were planning a trip when the bird disappeared completely and as is such with rarities it was assumed it had moved on. If you’ve ever been to Shetland or are watching “Shetland” on TV you’ll know trees are rarer than people, but luckily a birder checking out the few trees rediscovered it roosting in Lea Gardens, a garden open to the public.
I was getting itchy feet now and wasn’t keen to wait any longer but due to others’ work commitments and getting time off it was just myself and Paul Riley who made the trip.
Neither of us fancied the drive so we let the train take the strain, the ferry port is literally a 5 minute walk from Aberdeen station and it was there we met John who made us both feel like wimps having driven from Surrey twice, on his own in a car with 200,000 miles on the clock, he is 77.
The ferry crossing, 12.5 hours, was smooth and 30 minutes after docking we had picked up our hire car for the day and were on our way. The gardens were easy to find, imagine an acre of trees in a landscape devoid of trees, an oasis begging us to visit.
It didn’t look good on arrival, no sign of the owl and an acre of trees to search. Spending an hour without luck in one area I passed a pond, teeming with mating frogs, on my way to another section and after perhaps 10 minutes I heard a faint whistle. Incredibly I had walked past that pond at least ten times but hadn’t checked the trees there as that was where most people we looking, and there it was just 10 foot above my head.
Whilst slightly obscured it still amazes me I and many others had walked past it so many times without seeing it.

Having taken our fill of this extremely rare owl we headed off to Loch Spiggie and caught up with a long staying American Pied-billed Grebe, 4 Whooper swans and Black-throated Diver.
A common Rosefinch seen daily from January 26th at Cunningsburgh was our next target. We were invited in by the house owner who turned out to be the former local photographer for the Shetland News and he regaled us with tales of the rarities he’d photographed including the 1983 Hawk Owl. Unfortunately, the Rosefinch wasn’t showing, so we headed back for another look at the owl which was in exactly the same spot before driving to Shetland Catch, a fish processing plant.
On arrival we learnt the Rosefinch was now showing but we were watching a Glaucous Gull briefly and didn’t have time to return. We thought it might help our cause if we had some bread and a quick trip to the garage and 8 bread rolls later we discovered that gulls in Shetland aren’t like gulls in Yarmouth. They ignored the bread until it was at least 100 metres from us but it did work eventually when this glorious Iceland Gull appeared alongside these incredibly close Long-tailed Ducks.

It was a 5 minute drive back to the ferry and a beer or two was enjoyed before we retired to our cabin only to discover in the morning we had missed the Aurora during the night – well you can’t have everything I guess. On docking, we said goodbye to John and wished him a safe journey to Surrey as we headed to the station.
It was an uneventful journey until our change at York when we couldn’t find Pauls bag containing his telescope, with just 12 minutes to catch our next train we barely had time to look but had no choice but to report it to the train manager and catch our connection. You can imagine how that had deflated our mood and whilst it was insured, it’s the hassle involved that Paul could do without.
Incredibly the bag was found at Taunton and for less than £10 was couriered home complete with his telescope, I advised Paul to buy a lottery ticket and haven’t seen him since


Cyprus Delight. By David Gibbons  March 2019

March 2019 Temperature 16 to 22 ? C.
Starting at Lighthouse Beach in Paphos at 7.00 am we soon got down to some birdwatching.
Out to sea small flocks of Garganey constantly flew by, low over the water. Common Sandpiper, Common Kingfisher, Cormorants, Rock Doves along with Yellowlegged Gulls on the shoreline.
The wide path around this headland was busy with walkers and joggers at this time in the morning, we walked towards the Point, sea on our right and the 6-foot-high wire fence of the Archaeological Park on our left with the sun shining.

On the fence were Corn Buntings with Meadow Pipits and Crested Larks everywhere. Skylarks, Stonechats, Greenfinch, White Wagtails, Northern Wheatears, Hooded Crows by the dozen, House Sparrows, Woodpigeons and Collared Doves.
Through the fence we spotted a flock of Black-headed Yellow Wagtails, a couple of Hoopoes, Sardinian Warblers with Barn Swallows and Common Swifts overhead.
At the point we met another couple of British birders and a Great Spotted Cuckoo appeared and also Isabelline Wheatear and Common Redshank near the shoreline on the rocks.
Through the fence we got good views of Red-throated Pipit and Nightingales were heard singing. Not a bad start to the day!
8.30 am, and not a second before, entry to the Archaeological Park was allowed, “Jobsworth” these officials. There were about 10 birders by this time, itching to get in.
Half-price for us OAP’s 2.25 Euros, so why complain?
What a spot for birding! Quiet amongst the ancient ruins and mosaics, shrubs, trees, paths, rocky scrub and bushes. Kestrel, Black Redstart, Serin, Chiffchaff, Goldfinch, Whitethroat, Lesser Whitethroat, Hoopoe, Starling, Great Tit, Blackcap, Spanish Sparrow, Cyprus Wheatear, (1 of the 2 endemics on the island), Ruppell’s Warbler, Eastern Orphean Warbler, Song Thrush, House Martins and then the site got excited as a Masked Shrike appeared and perched for excellent views for 30 minutes or so.

Birding here in the first 2 weeks of May is best.

Next stop was Timi at the back of the airport to see Spur-winged Lapwing along with Black-eared Wheatear, Marsh Harrier and Zitting Cisticola.
Over to Mandira, down by the beach for lunch, still birders around checking on the day’s sightings when we got Tawny Pipit and Chaffinch.
The newest Tourist Attraction this year, due to above average rainfall in the winter, is the Asprokremmos Dam as it is overflowing!
Here we added Magpie, Little Owl, Ferruginous Duck and Laughing Dove to our list.
Up to Anarita Park, not really a Park as we know, but rolling grassland scrub with dirt tracks.

Chukar Partridge, Black Francolin, Linnet, Finsch’s Wheatear, Quail, Cetti’s Warbler, Lesser Kestrel, Woodlark and one species we missed earlier, in the Archaeological Park, Cretzschmar’s Bunting, what fantastic colouring! Blue, grey, rusty brown!
A little bit of time and patience we saw what we really came for, the second endemic, Cyprus Warbler!
66 species for the day! Time for a Keo back in Paphos by the sea!
Later in the week 3 Demoiselle Cranes flew over the hotel at 8.00 am.
A day trip across the Turkish Checkpoint into Northern Cyprus, to Famagusta to see the “Ghost Town” stretches of beach and hotels left to rack and ruin, we came across Coot, Little Egret and Jackdaw. On the trip back to Paphos we could easily see Greater Flamingo, from the coach, on the salt lakes at Larnaka.
A few days later a visit to the “Tomb of the Kings” the second Archaeological Site in Paphos, we added Purple Heron and flava sub-race of Yellow Wagtail, amongst the flock of Black-headed Yellow Wagtails. Later that day, back on the coastal path outside the site, 8 Black-crowned Night Heron were circulating before flying out to sea.


A Harpy Adventure. By Mary Walker    March 2019


Day 16 of our Costa Rica/Panama adventure found Keith & I and our fellow WVBS members Sue Gale & Lynda Vincent waking up with an almost Christmas Eve like excitement. The mysterious figure we “may” encounter was not Santa Claus, but Panama’s national bird, the HARPY EAGLE. Arguably the largest eagle on earth, and the most powerful in the Americas.

Attempting to travel light, some more effectively than others, (oops guilty), we headed south on the PanAmerican Highway 1, which stretches from Prudhoe Bay in Alaska and ends at Ushuaia, Argentina. There is an impenetrable gap in the middle, where the road disappears. This is at Yaviza in the province of Darien, which was where we left our vehicle.

Between Yaviza and Turbo in Colombia is a sprawling wilderness which is known as the Darien Gap. Enigmatic, remote and supposedly dangerous, it is rich with wildlife tantalising birders with the regional specialities and endemics.

Waiting on the slipway at Yaviza for our motorised dug-out canoe, local life went on around us. Children playing in the river, whilst mothers washed their pots, pans and clothes in the muddy water and others simply cleaned their teeth.

Our plans had changed at the last minute. Instead of staying in a hotel several hours away, we had been offered a unique opportunity to stay with the indigenous Embera community for 24 hours at Pijibusal, which was a 75-minute boat ride along the River Chucunaque.

Prompted by the Spanish in the late 1700’s, the Embera began migrating to Darien province in Panama from the Choco region in Colombia. By the 19th century, Darien was inhabited almost exclusively by Indigenous Embera along with the descendants of escaped African slaves, known as Darientas who settled alongside rivers. Since the 1960’s the majority of Embera have transitioned into settled communities, influenced by Western missionaries.

Off to Pijibusal we headed, but another treat first. An “impromptu” mooring en route and we wobbled up the bank, bins and camera at the ready. Our local guides had found a CRESTED EAGLE nest,apparently the rarest and hardest Eagle to see. Sure enough, a short while later we were enjoying excellent views of a four-month-old chick. It took a while to locate a parent, until the rare Dark Morph mother flew in and glared daggers at us from high in her tree. Time to leave them in peace.

Docking fairly close to Pijibusal, 17 of us including locals hitching a ride, together with sacks of rice, melons, water containers, and goodness knows what else, piled into the back of a pick-up truck. All the children were barefoot with one little boy proudly carrying his shoes to avoid spoiling them.

On arrival at the village we were greeted by the paint-chested chief and shown to our accommodation. A thatched room on stilts, completely open with five beds and five mosquito nets. The “matrimonial bed” was offered to Keith & I (i.e. the best), but was only inches larger than the single beds, so this was quickly donated to our guide Oli, who slept and gently snored all night long, whilst the rest of us being of a certain age, had numerous fights with our mozzie nets to answer the call of nature, with head lamps flashing into the complete darkness many feet below.

The magical call of the TINAMOU was wonderful to listen to in the dark, not so the cockerel crowing at 1.30 a.m., dogs barking, pigs grunting, and babies crying.

A quick coffee at 5.30a.m and our mission started. The HARPY EAGLE site was “30-45” mins walk, along the river. Oli told us to “focus” and not be tempted to stop and look at anything. We all nodded in agreement. Aim for the target!! Of course, almost two hours later, after numerous stops we reached the site. It’s impossible to walk past a single bird that is a lifer.

As it happened our timing could not have been better. The HARPY EAGLE chick had just been brought his breakfast – a Silky Anteater, by its mother. We were able to watch the most amazing spectacle, whilst eating our own breakfast of freshly made corn bread and cold omelette which was delivered on cue by the Embera chief. A breakfast fit for kings, as we toasted Mrs HARPY EAGLE and her baby.


Sadly, time to pack our bags and move on. What a tremendous last day it had been. Back in the canoe our eyes turned skywards as staggering numbers of raptors, mainly SWAINSONS and BROAD-WINGED HAWKS, winged their way North to the United States and Canada.

Only one more sight to see in Panama – the famous canal, before a shower and an attempt to look respectable for the long journey home to Norfolk.

One special bird missed, the DUSKY-BACKED JACAMAR. Can we possibly return?

We used Olivier Esquivel of Natural Discovery, Costa Rica to build and guide our trip. Our third time with him and in our view, we cannot recommend him highly enough.

Good accommodation, good food and drivers, and absolutely excellent guides and company, and of course, fantastic birds.


Monitoring birds at Pensthorpe by Paul Adams March 2019

On a bright sunny yet cold fresh morning, scanning the carpark quickly started our list. We walked in an anticlockwise route around the park, visiting the new wetland hide and farmland hides first. Raptors were about ; Marsh harriers x2 females, a Kestrel hovering and a majestic Red kite leisurely drifting over.
An unexpected flock of 18 House Martins feeding above the lake, very early summer arrivals by about 3-4 weeks, positive ID by the white rump. Moving through the woodland, plenty of birdsong; Blackcap, Chiffchaff have arrived and singing. Also a few winter migrants still hanging on, including 18 Redwing – still a joy to see.
The scrape with low water levels was ideal for waders; Avocets, a pair of Redshank, Green Sandpiper briefly and 2 Snipe, a pair of Little Ringed Plovers, one with unusual light colouring on its back and wings (this bird, or one similar, has visited for the last couple of years). Amongst the masses of gulls was a pair of Mediterranean gulls displaying, an Egyptian goose with 6 goslings , a Little Egret and a handsome male Reed bunting at close quarters to the hide.
Walking back in the rain we were cheered by the explosive song of a Cettis Warbler, but try finding the singing bird!
Just a small snap-shot of an enjoyable day with a full list of 64 species with some surprises , what a joy birdwatching is! Peace of mind.


A Spanish Adventure – 1st – 7th May 2019

The Return of the Inglorious Bustards : Keith Walker

Last year, following a presentation by Jake Gearty, we ran a club trip called “Two Continents” which went to Tarifa, Spain, and Morocco. This was enjoyed by all and IB extended an invitation to everyone who showed an active interest in last year’s holiday to join them for a further trip, this time to Cota Donana and Extremadura. We had hoped to extend this to other WVBS members, but the 100% take up left no spaces to fill. Here are some reflections on this year’s adventure :-

Day 1 Seville to Coto Donana : Mary Walker

As our guides, Simon & Jake, juggled cases into the minibuses outside our Ibis hotel in Seville, a debate was emerging: I for one had fallen at the first hurdle. Were we watching Common or Pallid Swifts above us? Guide books out. COMMON SWIFT – “abundant, fly rapidly, with long pointed scythe like wings”. Yep can definitely see them, but hang on a minute. PALLID SWIFT – “common, behaviour and habitat same as Common Swift. VERY hard to tell apart. Black eye and dark eye-mask standing out against a paler head in Pallid, larger and more diffuse white throat, paler brown upper wing and a slightly blunter wing tip”. Yep, can see them as well. Simon confirmed we were watching both species. Phew and they fly so fast! The MONK PARAKEETS were a lot easier to identify.

We drove through the cultivated lowlands of Andalucia, where the hot and sunny climate makes it a major fruit growing area. Over the great Guadalquivir River and into the Coto Donana National Park – one of the finest wetlands in Europe, made up of Stone Pine woodland, open heathland and sand dunes.

We were based in El Rocio, a small, traditional and quirky village, nestled on the edge of wild lagoons and marshes and looking like a film set from a spaghetti western – The Good, the Bad and the Ugly. The 21st century hasn’t quite arrived, white painted houses with ornate balconies, sandy roads with no markings, no traffic lights. Just horses everywhere that can be tied up at the rails outside the bars.

El Rocio hosts Spain’s largest religious festival every Pentecost (Whit Sunday), when approximately a million pilgrims converge on the town. We found ourselves a shady spot on the grass close to the Francisco Bernis Ornithological Centre, one of the best windows in Europe for birdwatching.

Everyone wondered about jotting down their own day lists. BEE-EATERS on the wire, HOOPOE under the tree, SPOONBILLS & GREATER FLAMINGOES foraging. The Terns were more difficult as we watched them picking insects from the water’s surface. Eventually we were all pretty confident we had WHISKERED & BLACK TERNS – many of them. COLLARED PRATINCOLES flew in a tight flock above our heads. Waders everywhere we looked.

We enjoyed the first of many picnic lunches, produced from the back of the van, all local stuff, bread and local farm cheese, olives, cured meats, fruit and salad, all washed down with Spanish wine. We weren’t shy. No leftovers to worry about.

Tummies content, we strolled alongside the lagoon looking for the PENDULINE TITS. Jake could hear them calling, but no luck there. I did however find a warbler that turned out to be an ISABELLINE WARBLER, and of course it refused to show itself again, darting about in the canopy.

Time to book into our hotel, Palacio Donana for a quick wash and brush up before dinner of amongst other things Espinacas con Garbanzos, a traditional starter of Spinach, Garlic and Chick Peas. A recipe to be repeated in Norwich!

On advice from our wine expert member, we also tasted the local sherry Manzanilla La Gitana – made just a few miles away in the costal town of San Lucar De Barrameda. That too was superb.

An excellent day all round and who knows what tomorrow will bring.

Day 2 An Iberian Lynx Safari : David Gibbons
7.00 am down for breakfast and another sunny day with the temperature rising. We were met outside the hotel by Juan Manuel and his 15 seater 4×4 mini-bus at 8.00am.
Entering the Donana Natural Parque, on the lookout for a Lynx, but birding as we went. One track was cordoned off to protect a mother with cub from the likes of us. The forest was quite dense to start with and we soon came across Red Deer and some got a glimpse of Wild Boar but no Lynx .Black Kite, Goldfinch, Red-legged Partridge, White Stork, Iberian Grey Shrike were easily spotted.

Our first stop was in an open grassland area and Cattle Egret (on Red Deer) Red-rumped Swallow, Cuckoo, Sardinian Warbler, heard but not seen to our frustration.
Bee-eater, Booted Eagle, Spoonbill, Griffon Vulture, Iberian Yellow Wagtail, Hoopoe, Shorttoed Eagle and so it went on.
Our second stop was on private land, Coto de Rey, within the Parque, Lesser Kestrel, Spanish Sparrow, Woodchat Shrike. It was now trying to get good views of Spanish Sparrows we came across a Booted Eagle on her nest.
The third stop, and still no Lynx, in an area of wetland, we had Purple Heron, 6 Spoonbills, Great White Egret, Booted Eagles overhead, more White Storks and Bee-eaters, Zitting Cisticola, etc.
On leaving the Parque we had excellent views of 5 Hoopoes.
So, no Lynx and back to the hotel, now just past midday for coffee in the courtyard.
Picnic lunch by the Tourist Office overlooking the wetlands of the town.
Siesta time for some but a walk into the town along the promenade revealed Great Reed Warblers, Little Bittern, Greater Flamingos and the list went on.

4.30 pm back on the 15 seater and into the Parque again, the sighting of the day arrived a Western Reef Heron with superb close-up views, Short-toed and Crested Larks, Stone Curlews, Savi’s Warbler, Great Crested Grebes, Stonechat, Waxbills, Squacco Herons, Spotted Flycatchers, dozens of Eagles, Purple Swamphens, White Storks.
Now nearly 7.30 pm the Visitor Centre up the road, still open, time for a cold beer which did hit the spot!!
9.00 pm time for dinner at Toruno Restaurant a chilled Manzanilla as an aperitif!

Day 3 Donana : Lynda Vincent

The wonderful wet environment of Donana, and the river Guadalquivira meant we had to drive for three hours, via Seville to reach the other side of the reserve. On a much needed coffee stop, especially for the drivers, since we were delayed by a traffic jam, some of the group had excellent views of a Montague’s Harrier.

After driving through Sanlucar de Barrameda, a famous sherry town, we visited the saltpans of Salina de Bonanza which gave us views of so many waders. Hundreds of Curlew sandpipers in breeding plumage, a sight we rarely have! The salt pans had varying amount of water/salt in them so the numbers of birds on the edge of each pan varied. On the lagoon, our main stop was by a sluice where Little and Black Terns swooping over and around our heads were magical. Trying to take their photo though was a challenge and I failed as they moved so fast. Further out, a pair of Slender-billed Gulls sat and waited for us to fully appreciate their elegance. Of course, there were many Greater Flamingos and Black- winged Stilts on the lagoon. The usual excellent picnic of local produce was enjoyed here, watched over by Yellow-legged Gulls. As the tide was receding, Long-clawed Crabs scrambled up the bank. Returning to the town past the saltpans, a single Curlew Sandpiper was very close to the track and cooperated whilst those people in the front bus at least, could take close-up photos. The pools also gave good views of Little Stints, Dunlin and Ringed and Kentish Plovers.

The next stop was the Algaida lagoon, comparatively small, but full of birds. The highlight was seeing several White-headed Ducks and an elusive Black-necked Grebe. In a wooded area nearby,
Some saw a Pied Flycatcher. Simon then took us to two small lagoons looking for a particular species we hadn’t seen so far. We clambered in and out of the buses, but finally we did find the target, a Red- knobbed Coot! the only one on the trip. Hiding in the bushes at the edge, a baby Black-crowned Night Heron, visibility hindered by swaying branches as the wind had got up a little. Still a sunny warm day though, so at the beginning of the return trip we stopped for ice creams.
The drive back to El Rocio was quicker, arriving back at the hotel 12 hours after we left, but still in time for a sherry and a normal Spanish time dinner. There was even time to pack up our kit for the next part of the trip.

Day 5 : Alwyn and Carole Jackson
We spent the day exploring the Magasca Special Protection Area. This is an area of pseudosteppe with extensive grassland surrounded by a multifunctional type of pastureland called Dehesa. The pastureland may be private or owned by the municipality. It is used primarily for grazing but also to produce a variety of products like wild game, mushrooms, honey, cork, firewood, the raising of the Spanish fighting bull and the black Iberian pig.
We cruised slowly along the back roads stopping and scanning, looking for the bird species that inhabit this area of high ornithological value. We enjoyed good views of Thekla, Crested, Calandra and Short-toed Larks, Spanish Sparrows, Pin-tailed Sandgrouse, European Bee-eaters, Hoopoes, Great Bustards, Spanish Imperial and Short-toed Eagles, Cinereous (Black) Vultures, Lesser Kestrels, European Rollers, Red-rumped Swallows, Corn Buntings, White Storks and Whinchat.
Some other memories of the day:-
During one stop when we were appreciating the finer points of Lesser Kestrel identification in flight we were brought down to earth by Kath announcing that Norwich City had beaten Aston Villa 2-1, that Sheffield United had drawn their game so

Norwich were Champions! There was a brief period of celebration before we returned to the Lesser Kestrels flying over the Spanish Plains.
At another stop our guide Simon posed the question, “What is the connection between a Great Bustard and Ryanair?” The answer – “A Great Bustard weighs 16kg which is the same as Ryanair’s baggage allowance!”
During the day those of us travelling with our guide Jake were treated to the strains of Philip Bailey singing “Easy Lover”, Mathew Wilder’s “Break My Stride” and Boys Meets Girl performing “Waiting for a Star to Fall” as well as other well-known ditties.

At one spot Roller nest boxes had been attached to each telegraph pole adjacent to the road. At the first post we stopped and Jake took some photos of a Roller. We moved on and stopped at the next post and Jake took some photos of a Roller. We move on, stopped at the next post and Jake took some photos of a Roller. We moved on, saw a Roller on a speed sign so stopped and Jake took some photos of the Roller. We moved on, saw a Roller on a telegraph post so we stopped and Jake took some photos of the Roller. The Roller flew to the next telegraph post so we moved on then stopped so Jake could take even more photos. Eventually Jake was satisfied that he had enough photos of European Rollers so we continued on our way.
We returned to our hotel having had a superb day exploring this very special area.

Day 6: Liz Gibson
After breakfast featuring the ever-popular gazpacho and orange cake, we drove to the town of Trujillo for a spot of urban birding. The medieval town is the birthplace of conquistador, Francisco Pizarro and more recently one of the many locations for Game of Thrones – the castle masquerading as Casterly Rock, ancestral stronghold of House Lannister. Cath and I were impressed, the others -decidedly non-plussed.
While Simon re-stocked the picnic hamper at a nearby supermercado we birded The Parque de San Lazaro (Pool of Dreams). A small park in need of some TLC but obviously well used by residents of all ages – joggers, dog walkers and Trujillo’s senior women’s walking group. The lake hosted, among others, Black-winged Stilt, Ringed Plover and numerous Coot. We heard, but didn’t see, a Golden Oriole despite David’s best efforts.
We headed towards Monfragüe National Park, named Mons Fragorum (Fragmented Rock) by the Romans, a half hour drive from Trujillo. In 1988 the European Union designated Monfragüe a Special Protection Area (SPA) for bird life.
Passing through the village of Torrej?n el Rubio and climbing through magnificent scenery of crags and rocks, we saw groups of Iberian Black Pigs drinking at water holes, circling Red Kite, lycra clad cyclists and a dead Egyptian Mongoose – Extremaduran roadkill.
As we gained altitude, Cinereous (aka Black, Monk or Eurasian Vulture but “Angel of the North” to me) and Griffon Vulture kettled overhead, together with Black Stork and Crag Martin. Also, a shocking roadside sighting of Hillary and partner last spotted 24hrs previously at an acrimonious coffee break!

Stopping at a popular viewpoint Simon shared his scope with a keen young Spanish birder and her family – inspiring the next generation!
In dire need of caffeine, we decamped to the quaint hamlet of Villarreal de San Carlos. Previously deserted, thanks to EU funding it was rebuilt for walkers and birdwatchers – vital for the economy of Extremadura. Sitting under the canopy we were entertained by nesting Swallow swooping above our heads with food for their offspring.
Back on the minibuses again, we travelled along winding roads edged with acres of dense Gum Cistus (Rockrose), Olive trees, Holm and Cork Oaks. A cry of “Dartford Warbler!” brought us to a standstill and the group disembarked to search for the elusive bird – sadly unsuccessfully.
Lunch break at a busy picnic area with the added bonus of Egyptian Vulture (2) and Black-eared Wheatear followed by numerous group photos – Simon becoming more and more anxious. Hurriedly herding us onto the buses we drove to a craggy viewpoint and soon discovered the reason for his discomfort. Scopes and bins adjusted just in time for the arrival of a Spanish Imperial Eagle! At 3.30 precisely every afternoon it lands on a rocky outcrop and stays for exactly 1 hour, lording it over the groups of Griffon Vulture below. Eagle-eyed (!) Janet also spotted a large male Wild Boar grubbing amongst the steep sided cliff – more mountain goat than pig.

Afternoon tea (Lemon Fantas) at Hotel Rural, Puerta de Monfragüe where Mary spotted a beautiful Ocellated Lizard. Jake meanwhile led a route march in search of a Melodious Warbler.
The return journey took us through plains of nesting white storks to our temporary home – Hotel El Labriego in the sleepy village of Plasenzuela. Another fun-packed day with the WVBS gang and a couple of Bustards.

Some Reflections : Cath Robinson
Those of you who have been to Cota Donana National Park and the roads around the San Jose Valverde visitor centre will understand when I say that I’ve rarely seen so much wildlife packed into a relatively small area. If this was anyone’s first introduction to birdwatching then they would be doomed to disappointment while normal birding in the UK! After having seen the odd Purple Swamphen at the marismas by El Rocio, we saw one then two then four and then about 50 all grouped together in the marshes. We stopped by a bridge to look out over the reeds and water. An extremely loud Great Reed Warbler was singing from a post just in front of us. Staring at it through the foreground reeds I became aware of an unexpected movement in the reeds just in front. Then I thought I glimpsed some feathers in the reeds. Looking closely I saw an eye. Then a neck. Then this suggestion of a bird started to climb the reeds and then a female Little Bittern decided that we were too close for comfort (about 6ft) and took off. Amazing. And around the corner Purple Herons and Squacco Herons were lining up to be seen: there must have been at least 8 Squacco Herons in a patch of marshes 30 yards long and we didn’t even get out of the bus!

We had stopped for a picnic at an idyllic birdwatching stop. Alpine swifts were soaring from their nesting sites at the top of a dam: the valley below sported 3 Marsh Harriers while the waters in the reservoir brought us our first Cormorants, Gull-Billed Terns and Black Headed Gulls. And the huge slab of rock emerging out of the plains was successfully scanned for Griffon Vultures, Rock Buntings and Blue Rock Thrushes which took their chances with rock climbers.

But while we were wandering round trying to find more Rock Thrushes, Alan and I spotted one on the skyline, silhouetted. And then Alan saw another bird flying off but with a white rump to disappear into the rocks. Clearly not a Blue Rock Thrush. Mary and I were then scanning the other side of the rock and saw a black silhouette again thinking Rock Thrush but then it flew and we both had a great view of the rump of a Black Wheatear with its black T on a white background. Which just made me think that thrush like birds on rocks in silhouette can be confusing. And when later we saw Blue Rock Thrush in the sun I wondered how we could ever have been confused at all.

And just a word for the Corn Bunting. It was good to see Great Bustard and Little Bustard but it was wonderful to see so many Corn Buntings that you almost expected to see them on every wire on every field. We had what has become our annual talk on the differences between Thekla’s Lark and Crested Lark (still tricky) and became familiar with Callandra Lark with its giveaway trailing white wing edge. All very satisfying, but Corn Buntings rattling their keys never failed to please and made me wonder what British fields and countryside once were like and maybe, just maybe, could be again with different farming practices and less pressure on land.

On Rarity and Abundance : Alan Hughes
I have been lucky enough to go on birding trips to Europe several times over the years, and 2 features of these stand out in my mind, and could be summarised as: –

1. Rarity. I wouldn’t consider myself as a “Twitcher” (seems to me its often a case of wrong bird, wrong place, wrong time and its probably going to die…), but like all birders, I am always thrilled to see a rare bird. Often, these species are only hanging on by the skin of their beaks, some surviving largely due to the tremendous efforts and dedication of gifted conservationists. Even better if these birds are beautiful as well! 2. Abundance. On balance, a profusion of birds (sometimes lots of different species, sometimes the same) is even more exciting to me. What a thrill to see vast numbers of raptors migrating across the Gibraltar Straits or along the Black Sea coast of Bulgaria, how fantastic are the wildflower meadows with huge numbers of butterflies and birds in the Rhodope Mountains. But this also makes me sad, as this is what we have lost in the UK. We are good (and getting better) at conserving endangered species in especially selected areas (i.e. reserves), but until you are confronted by a profusion of wild species in their natural settings, it is easy to forget what we have lost at home. Our recent trip to Spain with Inglorious Bustards was a perfect illustration of these features, and I will try to explain what I mean with an account of 2 days of our holiday: –
Day 4
This was our day to move locations from the brilliant if quirky El Rocio in Coto Donana to Extramadura, but before we left, our guides, Simon and Jake, had some shopping to do for another magnificent picnic lunch, so they gave us an hour of “free time” which we spent on the boardwalk around the edge of the town looking out across the Madre de Marismas lagoon. The sight of this had nearly overwhelmed me on my first day here – so many exotic, exciting wetland birds from Greater Flamingo, Glossy Ibis, Spoonbill, all very much on show in large numbers, to Little Bittern, Black Tern, Purple Swamp hen, Great Reed Warbler, requiring a little more work, but seen by everyone in the group – but where to look first?! So, it was good to have some “revision time” to check out the birds we had seen on previous days but in a calmer, more orderly fashion. It was also good to say “goodbye” to the more common species – Spotless Starlings and House Sparrows whose constant chattering we woke up to each morning, and the busy flock of House Martins that inhabited the main street.

On the way to our new home in Extremadura, we stopped for lunch alongside the dam of a reservoir, and this houses the largest colony of Alpine Swifts in the World – what a brilliant site! So exciting, in fact, that one of our guides nearly broke his neck trying to photograph them! There were also some scarcer species here to admire – Blue Rock Thrush, Black Wheatear, Rock Bunting, and the impossibly huge Cinereous Vulture – Europe’s largest raptor.
What a great day – but it was nice to arrive at our hotel in Placenzuela to find that the Spotless Starlings, House Sparrows and Red rumped Swallows, had all followed us there!

Day 7
Simon had offered us a pre-breakfast trip to look for some rarities (I suspect guides always feel under some pressure to find these) and we were all eager to take him up on this (at least, all but one who will remain nameless, Janet!). So, we ventured back to the plains of Santa Marta de Magasca as the sun rose to give us some stunning skies. This was another chance to see the Great Bustards that we had seen on Day 5 – magnificent, ridiculous males that strutted along the skyline proclaiming “How handsome am I? Look everyone!”: In the words of the Joyce Grenfell ditty – “as stately as a galleon”. Just wait until the Me-Too movement hits them! Pin-tailed Sandgrouse flew past in small groups. And then Little Bustards (our main target) – these are now drastically falling in numbers (no-one seems to know why) so we were all delighted to see a pair fly past, and then the male returned to spend the next hour or so displaying and calling out his decidedly underwhelming “wet fart” call. I think he so wanted to grow up to be a Great Bustard! What a privilege to see him (and to hear his rival calling back from very close but in an invisible location to us).
Lunch was in an overgrown park on the outskirts of a nearby town, as Simon knew of another scarce bird that was nesting there – a Long-eared Owl. We located one parent bird thanks to a trio of Eurasian Magpies that were mobbing it, and we also found a “branched” fledgling in a nearby tree. Fabulous birds!
But what of Abundance on day 7? Well, the vast numbers of Griffon Vultures and Black Kites kettling over suspected carcases or afterbirths from local cattle were impressive. The sublimely beautiful Lesser Kestrels that colonise the Moorish hilltop town of Trujillo (a location from Game of Thrones), and give this town a unique protection zone status, I could have watched all day. But most of all, I was affected by the abundant insect life on the plains – walk through the long grass and crickets and grasshoppers are pinging away in all directions, seemingly one for every blade of grass. Small wonder, then, that Spain has such riches of bird life, and so sad that in the UK we have lost so much of our wildlife.

It was a great trip in all ways: Thanks to Simon and Jake at Inglorious Bustards, and to Keith for organising this on our behalf.

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